Star Mobile

As I mentioned in my cocktail umbrella wreath post, we had a rainbow themed party for my son.  One of the decorations that we did for the dining room, was to spice up our light fixture with a star mobile.  This is basically the same craft that I did in my Butterfly Mobile tutorial, but I made it a little more pro this time because it wasn’t just a whim.

Here’s what I used:

  • Craft foam in various colours
  • scissors
  • elmer’s glitter glue
  • crayola glitter glue
  • vinyl thread
  • needle

I cut out craft foam stars in 6 different colours and had my kids decorate them using glitter glue.  I then used clear vinyl thread to attach them to the light fixture.  I used a needle to get the thread through the foam and tied a double knot so the thread wouldn’t pull all the way through.  I then tied the other end to the light fixture.  This gave the illusion that the stars were just hanging in mid air, which definitely impressed the 5 and under crowd 🙂


Stretch Pants for Kids

My son’s dance school was really late getting their recital costumes out this year, and unlucky us, his pants were way too big!  With just a week to get something workable, I decided to sew him a pair of pants myself.  I had a bunch of black lycra that was very similar to the fabric of his costume pants, so all I needed was a pattern.  He had his pants that he wore to class which fit him perfectly, so I decided to use those as a template.  Here’s what I did:

  1. Lay out whatever your going to use to make your pattern piece.  I use Do-Sew, but you can use news paper or any other product for patterns making.
  2. Fold the pants that your using as a template in half, on leg on top of the other.
  3. Trace down the side of the pants that is not just straight up and down.  In this picture, trace down the right hand side.  Make sure not to trace right next to the pants, as you have to add a seam allowance.  If you are going to be sewing with a sewing machine, you’ll probably want to add 3/8ths to 5/8ths of an inch.  If you are going to be using a serger, you can get away with leaving only 1/4 inch.
  4. Trace across the top and bottom, remembering to add extra space for hems and elastic.  The pants I was using had a fold over knit waist band, so I had to do a bit of guess work.  It always better to leave more, as it’s very easy to cut off from the top after you’ve sewn your pants and tried them on your little one.  I left an extra 1.5″ at the bottom to allow a 3/4″ double folded hem.
  5. Make a small mark on the left side of the pattern as well so that you know where to place your pants once you’ve flipped them over.
  6. Now this is the part that’s a lot easier to demonstrate than describe, but I’ll try my best.  Your pants should be lying on a table folded in half, one leg over the other.  Without lifting them off the table, unfold the top leg so that your pants are laying out flat.  Now lift the pants up and fold the leg that was on top under the other leg.  Lay your pants down again.   This is just so that you get the “front crotch” and the “back crotch” shape traced.
  7. Line up the straight side of the pant legs with the small mark that you made on your pattern piece and make sure to line up the top and bottom.  If you’re laying your pants out like I did in my picture, you would now trace around the left side of the pants.  Remember to leave the same seam allowance that you did on the other side.
  8. You now have to extend your top and bottom lines to meet up with the left side of the pattern that you have just traced.
  9. Now cut out your pattern piece.  It should look something like the picture on the right.  The deeper curved portion will be the back of the pants.  I know that at this point it does not look like it will make a pair of pants, but trust me, it will.
  10. Lay out your fabric and fold it over so that you can fit your pattern piece on the folded part.  This will allow you to cut out two pieces at the same time.  It is easiest to fold it over so that the right sides of the fabric are together.  This just saves you from taking them apart later.  It is very important that if you have fabric that only stretches one way, or has more stretch one way, that the stretchier part goes across the width of the pants.  They will be tough (or impossible) to get on if you have the stretch going to length of the pants.
  11. Pin down your pattern piece on the folded part of your fabric.  Make sure it is not touching the folded edge of your fabric.
  12. Cut out around your pattern piece.  You now have your pattern piece and two fabric pieces all pinned together.
  13. Take off the pattern piece, but leave the other two pieces pinned together.  Sew up both the crotch seams.  I would normally recommend matching your thread to your fabric, but this was a rush job and I couldn’t find four black serger spools, so I did it in white.  The good news is that the thread shows up really well in the pictures for this tutorial 🙂
  14. Again, this part is easy to demonstrate, but tough to describe.  I’m hoping the pictures will help.  Visualize the smaller of the two seams that you just sewed as the seam that goes up the front of the pants.  The bigger of the two seams is the seam that goes up the back of the pants.  With that in mind, lift up your pants up by the waist and line the two seams up so they are smack on top of each other.  When you lay the pants back down you should have what’s pictured on the right.
  15. Now you have to sew up one leg and down the other making sure your crotch seams line up.
  16. This is when you want to have your first fitting to make sure that the waist is going to sit where you want it to sit.  Cut off extra fabric at the top if you need to.
  17. There are two ways to do the waist.  The way that I am going to show is how to do it if you have a serger.  If you have a sewing machine, you’re going to want to do a casing method.  Here is a neat little video tutorial on how to do that.
  18. Measure your child’s waist to figure out how much elastic you need.  I take the measurement and add 1/4″.  I find this works well because although I overlap by a little more than 1/4″, this serging method tends to stretch the elastic.
  19. Overlap your elastic by 1/4″-1/2″ and use the zig-zag stitch on your sewing maching to tack it down.  I go up and down several times to make sure it’s sewn together really well.
  20. Now mark each quarter of your elastic with a pin.  I do this by laying my elastic out folded in half.  Put a pin at each of the ends.  Now lay the elastic out folded in half, but with the pins lying right on top of each other.  Put the remaining two pins at the new ends.  You now have four evenly spaced pins.  Attach those pins to each quarter of the waist band on your pants, making sure to pin the elastic to the inside of the pants.
  21. serge the elastic and pants together around the top of the waist band making sure to stretch the elastic as your sewing so that you don’t have any bunching at the the places that you’ve pinned.
  22. Now roll the pants to the inside over the elastic to form your casing.  I did a double fold, but a single fold will also work.  I find it easiest if you press the waist at the stage.  I also find it helpful to pin because with stretchy fabric it’s easy to stretch one piece more than another if they aren’t pinned together.
  23. Sew along the bottom edge of the elastic using a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine.  I tried to take a picture here, but the black stitching on black fabric doesn’t show up very well.  The best shot was one of the hem on the legs.  It’s the same stitching as at the waist.
  24. Have your child try the pants on again to figure out how much you need to hem.  I pressed up about 1/2″ and then rolled it again and pressed.  I then just sewed around the bottom using my zig-zag stitch.  The reason you use a zig-zag is so that the seam will stretch with the pants.  A strait seem on a regular sewing machine has no give, so especially at the waist, it is very important to use a zig-zag stitch.

Quick & Easy Popsicle Stick Puppets

My son has been playing “puppets” with things that aren’t really puppets for a few days, so yesterday I suggested we make some puppets of people that he knows.  We didn’t have a lot of time to make complicated puppets, so we made these ones that are really easy and fast.

Here’s what you need:

  • constructions paper
  • something round to trace
  • pencil/markers/pens
  • scissors
  • glue
  • Popsicle sticks
  • yarn scraps

Here’s how to make them:

  1. Fold your paper in half.
  2. Place your “circle” (we used the bottom of a large glass) on the paper and trace.
  3. Cut out your circle through both layers.  This gives you two identical circles (and blew my 4 year old’s mind): one for the face and one for the back of the head.
  4. Draw your face on one of the circles.
  5. Put glue all the way around the edge of the other circle.  Attach cut pieces of yarn for hair and attach the popsicle stick.  These get sandwiched between the two circles.
  6. Press the face piece down on top of the popsicle, hair and back piece.

Voila! You can now enjoy endless hours of puppet shows 🙂

Touch of Colour in Corel Paint Shop Pro X3

When I first started doing digital scrapbooking, I didn’t want to make an investment in software because I didn’t know if it was something I was going to do a lot of.  My husband found me a free program called  It is a neat little program that is basically built by the users.  I could do all the basic stuff, but it didn’t have any really fancy tools.  Things like adding a drop shadow would take 6 or 7 clicks whereas in a bought program you do it in two clicks.  After a year or so of using, I decided that digital scrapbooking was something that I really enjoyed and was going to continue as a hobby.  Most digital scrapbookers at the time were using Adobe products (this was before the big boom of software specific for digital scrapbooking), but I decided to go with the equivalent product from Corel, as Corel is a Canadian company.  I figured I would be able to muddle my way through as I had with  I have managed, but I almost always have to “translate” adobe tutorials into paint shop language on my own.  I have decided to post paint shop tutorials here in case there is anyone else out there doing digital scrapbooking in paint shop 🙂

The first tutorial I have decided to do, is adding a touch of colour to a black and white photo.  I love this effect, but I find it only works on very select photos.  I don’t end up using it often, so I can never remember how to do it!  There are lots of tutorials for Adobe on how to do this, but I think at least half of them are not great ways.  Some of the tutorials basically put a black and white copy above a colour copy of the photo.  You then erase what you want in colour from the black and white copy.  The problem is, that if you erase just a smidge too much, the only way to correct is your undo button.  The way I’m going to show you gives you the option of re-painting to black and white.

So here goes:

  1. Open your photo and Save As so that you don’t accidentally lose your original photo. 
  2. Make sure your Layers Pallet is open.  To open your layers pallet, go to View -> Pallets -> Layers. opening layers palletYour layers pallet looks like this:layers pallet
  3. In your layers pallet, Right click on the background image and select Duplicate.duplicate background image
  4. Still working in your layers pallet, right click on the layer labelled “copy of background” and select New Adjustment Layer -> Channel mixer adjustment layer
  5. In the Channel Mixer Box, select the Monochrome Box. This will change your layer to black and monochrome
  6. In your layers pallet, right click on your new layer called Channel Mixer 1.  Select Merge -> Merge Down.merge adjustment layer
  7. In your layers pallet, right click on the layer called copy of background.  Select New Mask Layer -> Show mask layer
  8. Make sure that black is selected as your foreground colour and white is selected as your background colour.  The easiest way to do this is to have your Materials Pallet open (refer to step 2 on how to open pallets) and select the “set to black and white” button.set to black and white
  9. Making sure that your Mask layer is selected in your layers pallet, choose your paint brush tool.paint brush tool
  10. Now you can start to paint.  Anything that you paint using a black paint brush will reveal the colour from the original image.  Anything that you paint using a white paint brush will change back to black and white.  Here is my finished product:
  11. This is how I put it into a layout using The Scrappy Kat’s kit Totally Flakey:

Child’s Reversibile Apron

If you have little sous-chefs in your kitchen, little aprons are a must!  I had a little apron that we got from a Kindermusik course which served my son very well.

Kindermusk Apron

However, my daughter now wants to help too, so I needed a second little apron.  I liked the fit of the Kindermusik apron, so I decided to use it as a template to make my new apron.  It had two pockets on the front that my kids didn’t use, so I decided to go pocket-less for my version.  I traced the outline of the original apron onto do-sew to make my pattern piece, but if you want to try this here are the measurements that I cut (i.e. including seam allowance):

  • width of bib: 8″ at the top, curve out gently to the full width of the skirt.
  • length of bib:8″
  • width of skirt: 17″
  • total length: 20″
  • width of ties:3″
  • length of ties: ~20″  the lengths varied because I cut them however I could to use the least amount of fabric.

This apron is really easy to make and is great for beginner sewers.  Here’s a quick tutorial on how to put it together.

1.  cut out two apron pieces.  I cut both pieces from the same fabric, but I think choosing two different fabrics would be cuter.  That way your little one basically gets two new aprons!

2. cut out four ties.

3.  Fold the ties in half lengthwise.  Press.  Fold each of the unfinished sides in towards that middle crease.  This is what you should end up with: Fold and press 4 ties4.  Fold up 3/8″ of one end of the tie and press inwards.  This is just so that the end of your tie doesn’t have any unfinished edges when you’re done.Fold down end of tie

5.  Sew open edge of ties shut using only 1/8″ seam allowance. 

6.  Sew all four ties onto one of your apron pieces as per pictures.

Waist tie placement

Neck tie placement

  I sewed back and forth a few times to make sure that the tie was going to be securely anchored.

7.  Place remaining apron piece right side down on your first piece and pin in place.  You are now going to sew all the way around the outside of your two pieces, leaving only a 3-4″ gap so that you can turn the apron right side out.  I left the gap on one of the sides of the apron skirt.

Leave 3-4" gap for turning the apron right side out

I used a 3/8″ seam allowance.  **Make sure you keep your ties in towards the centre of your pieces so that you don’t inadvertently sew them into your apron seams.

8.  If you are a beginner sewer, here is a quick tip on sewing 90 degree corners.  Sew straight down the side of the apron.  When your needle is 3/8″ from the bottom of your apron stop sewing.  If your needle is in the up position, turn the wheel on the side of your machine to put the needle in the down position.  Lift up your presser foot and rotate your piece 90 degrees.  Sew straight along the bottom of your apron.  Repeat at next corner to go up the other side.

Presser foot is up, needle is down. Now you can rotate your fabric 90 degrees.

9.  Turn your apron right side out and press your seams flat.

10.  Top stitch around the outside of the apron.  This will close the gap that was left for turning as well as giving it a professional finished look.

11. Enjoy the finished product!  I was so pleased with the first one, that I decided to make a second one for my son.

I’m still learning about my fancy camera, and I didn’t quite get the settings right for this photo.  The colours are really washed out 😦